Una semana en los pueblos Maya: Capitulo 2

An introduction to El Estor and Lote Ocho

So, after a sobering trip to the FAGA labs in Guate, we reboarded the bus and disembarked for El Estor. The bus ride was long but the time passed quickly. From time-to-time, Grahame would speak on the issues from the past and struggles for the future. Once in a while, we would stop for a meal: On this trip, meals meant Ramen and Twix, Oreo’s and peanut butter, Gatorade and maybe some ice cream if it was available. At one of the stops, we were able to get some real food, but real food remained an exception to the rule.

At the end of the day, I felt as tired as this guy

We rolled into the quiet village of El Estor just as the sun was beginning to set. After unloading the bus, accommodation was the next on the action-list. Within seconds, the group was divided up and we all headed towards our respective hotels. It surprised me that this community had as many hotel’s as it did, which was around five of so…never the less, we were the only ones in them. After finding a roommate, I tossed my bag onto my bed then I headed out to explore the town.

Confused faces as future plans are hatched

The first thing I noticed was the rustling all over a nearby pile of rocks. On closer inspection, there were dozens of little lizards, scurrying around underfoot hiding around the rock pile. Awesome. I also was able to find really small tree frogs at the foot of one of the trees, right near the water. Aside from the wildlife, I chatted up some local kids playing soccer, they though I was american which is not really surprising. I only had a few minutes to snap some shots before I saw half of the class heading towards the pier. I became suddenly aware of all sweat and dirt away, and I hurried over towards the lake as well.

A tranquil evening in El Estor

The plunge into the water was warm and welcoming, although there was a bit of trash floating around. Just don’t drink the water - I thought to myself. Turning back to look towards the shore, I faced a beautiful vista: the clouds rolling into the hills, gently arching upwards, swirling away into nothing. After dark, I went out into the streets to experiment with my camera.

Awesome

Diner came shortly after and we feasted on fresh fish, reflecting on the day through jokes and silence. After the plates were cleared, two guests arrived. This is a small part of their story.

The Story of Lote Ocho: A nickel for your thoughts and your life as well.

Although the presence of mineral interests in Lote Ocho have been pursued by Canadian mining companies for the last 50 years, It is important to think of these developments within the broader context of Guatemala as a whole, and the 500 years of colonial history. That being said, here is some background info of the situation.

In the 60’s Canadian mining giant INCO entered a partnership with US mining company Hana Mining Company to form EXMIBAL. In 1962, the first concession was filed, and the mining conglomerate started to forcefully lobby the military government of the time. In 1965, they were rewarded with the creation of a new mining law which created favorable legal and economic environment for foreign direct investment. As a result, they were granted 365 square kilometers of land in the El Estor Region, divided into different lots…thus the name Lote Ocho ‘lot eight’.

Coordinate marker placed in Lote Ocho after mineral exploration

Through political pressure, they were able to gain tax-exempt status in 1968. This meant that the company needed only to pay the government USD$23,000 each year in the form of royalties for mineral rights and the right to evict the Q'uechi communities that inhabit the land. In 1969, EXMIBAL sought to renegotiate their contract on even more favorable terms. This was heavily countered by local communities and solidarity groups elsewhere in Guatemala. In response, the company sponsored a campaing of assassination, intimidation and the repression of the communities in El Estor. Three community leaders were gunned down between 1969 and 1971, the year EXMIBAL settled with the government. When the political groups, as well as the government demanded further reforms, EXMIBAL pulled out of Guatemala, but retained their concession. (A good recounting of this story and a general history of resource exploitation in Guatemala is in Luis Solano, Guatemala: Petróleo y minería en las entrañas del poder, infopress, 2005.)

CGN's mine, newly renamed the 'Fenix Project'

Years later, the players have changed but the game is exactly the same. First INCO/EXMIBAL the Sky Minerals, and now Hudbay resources/CGN. In the early 2000's, CGN has renamed the mine and they intend to have the project operational in the next year or so. Aside from renovating the bricks and mortar, another priority is to forcibly relocate the Maya Q’ecqchi peoples by any means necessary.

Angelica stands in the ruins of her home, telling her story.

This is where the story of Angelica and Maria picks up. On September 27, 2007… 800 police, military and private security forces came into Lote Ocho to carryout a eviction notice. Maria’s husband, Adolfo Ich Xaman was murdered. Many others were injured, and their community was razed to the ground. They fled into the jungle, taking shelter in the harsh mountainside, waiting for the forces to pull out. A week later, the community started to move back to their lands, and began to construct temporary shelters. When they heard that the forces where on the way back, the men fled into the hillside [during the war, it was common to target the men]. The security forces entered the village to find the women all alone...

Twelve women were raped. Because of their injuries, pregnancies were ended and some women lost the ability to bear children. Their temporary shelters destroyed once again and any remaining valuables were looted as well. Since that day, they have been living in poverty and fear, scattered throughout the countryside.

A community leader translates Q'quichi into Spanish

After over an hour of traveling steep paths and washed out roads, we arrived at Lote Ocho. It's one of the most impoverished and remote places I have ever been. Our class attended a community meeting where they talked about ongoing legal cases and the need for the Q’eqchi communities to stay united against the mine. They talked of their need and desire to move back to their lands. We sat with them, we ate with them. We saw their ruins of their community and listened to their stories.

A vote is taken, the community has spoken

Dinner was very quiet that night.