I started Open Veins of Latin America by Eduardo Galeano a few days ago. Only 80 pages in, and I would highly recommend this book to anyone with any kind of interest in history or politics. When Ally was hiking the Inca trail in Peru, she mentioned that tourists could rent a porter for a certain sum of money. This jumped back into my mind as soon as I read the following passage.
“Until the revolution of 1952 restored the forgotten right of dignity to Bolivian Indians, the pongo sleep beside the dog, ate leftovers of his dinner, and knelt when speaking to anyone with a white skin. Four legged beast of burden were scarce in the conquistadors time and they used Indian backs to transport their baggage; even to this day Aymara and Quechua porters can be seen all over the Andean altiplano carrying loads for a crust of bread”
Just a quick FYI, pongo is the conjugated form of poner, which means to place, to set or to arrange. So, although “carrying loads for a crust of bread” might be a tad dramatic in 2011 terms, there is an undeniable amount of truth. The Inca Trail is one of the toughest hikes in South America and the porters wake up earlier, do it faster, carry more than anyone else and go to bed later at the end of the day…all for what we would consider pocket change. I’m not saying that the situation hasn’t improved for the indigenous peoples of Bolivia, I’m just saying that the similarities between the contemporary period vs the conquista would make me a little bit...discomfited.
Sunday, May 29, 2011
Saturday, May 28, 2011
Bienvenidos Mel!
Zelayas' return was the most historic thing I've ever witnessed...
An ousted president returning to thousands of his supporters. Although the idea of 'coming home', gives a sense of resolution or finality, it is not so in this home-coming. That being said, the excitement was undeniable. Every time a plane was spotted in the air, thousands of people would jump to their feet, and surge towards the fences surrounding the air field.
Once we realized that it was a commercial charter...we all sat back down in disappointment. I've never had to wait so long for a dignitary to arrive. He was due in at 11am, and he touched down closer to 2:00pm or 2:30pm. My goodness man! As the rain started to come down, I started thinking about leaving...
The thing that stuck me was the role of Mel Zelaya, as a political figure, in this whole situation. After talking to a handful of people during my stay in the region, it was clear that his position as a political figure is a relatively insignificant part of the political situation in Honduras.
Although there is a widespread hope that Mels' return signals a new chapter of democracy in Honduras, nothing is certain. In fact, his return could even be construed as being more negative than positive by some perspectives. Consider that his return paves the way for Honduras to be re-admitted into the Organization of American States (OAS). This would normalize political and economic relations between the other American states and Honduras. Although this is generally a good thing, it would also mean that the 'Pepe' Lobo regime, and its aggressive neo-liberal economic policies, would become legitimized. This would legitimize and act as an acceptance of the new stats quo for the way business is conducted in Honduras. In other words, the resistance looses legitimacy in denouncing 'Pepe' Lobo when his administration gains legitimacy. This undermines the leverage used by social justice groups to try to soften the harsh economic policies of the regime. I call these policies harsh, because large energy projects, privatization and agro-industrial expansion are often forced on the people of Honduras through intimidation, fear, and at times violence.
Also, the question of what to do next could affect the Resistance. Some say the movement could splinter, yet others say that this has already happened. What IS clear is the demand for the constituyente [process of constitutional reform] seems universal. The problem remains, how can they avoid another crisis similar to the one that led to the crisis in the first place? Another dilemma is that Los Liberales en Resistencia want to take the FNRP to the level of a national political party, but this is opposed by the more radical elements of the resistance. What to do...what to do?
These questions aside, this was not just an important moment for Honduras...this was an important moment for Latin America. It proved that Latin America is not just a market, and that it is its own continent, able to manage its affairs without the guiding hand of the US.
Bienvenidos Mel, y viva la Resistancia Popular!
Friday, May 27, 2011
Zelya Returns and other unfinished business...
Right now, I'm on my own sitting in the lobby of hotel CADETUR in Tegucigalpa, Honduras.
Tonight is the eve of Mel Zelya's return after a constitutional crisis and a coup removed him from office on June 28th, 2009. After a few years of relative silence, the charges against Zelya were officially dropped on May 2nd 2011, sparking everyone in the country to speculate about his possible return. The co-signing of an accord with "Pepe' Lobo on May 22nd made his hypothetical return imminent. The street-vendors have long since started to cash in on the hype by selling laminated 1000 Lempira bills with his face on it.
To bring anyone who cares about what I've spent the past two weeks...
Members of the FNRP and other groups from throughout Honduran society will be descending on the capital. Some will be their supporting Zelya, others supporting there to support the demands for a Constituyente, others will denounce his return aswell. And there will be others like myself, simply there to observe the proceedings.
Protests after the coup in 2009
To bring anyone who cares about what I've spent the past two weeks...
I've traveling to some hot-spots within the country with Karen Spring (Right's Action, http://www.rightsaction.org/) and some classmates and peers (Syndicateffect). We have visited..
...The COFADEH office, and a talk with Adrienne Pine
...The hunger-striking teachers in Tugucigalpa,
protesting the loss of IMPREMA through corruption.
...One of many disenfranchised Garifuna communities
near Trujillo. Then we followed up with OFRANEH.
...A natural hot-spring, which was near...
...The communities affected by mining around El Porvenir...
...and campesinos locked in a a deadly struggle for land
in Guadalupe Carne. R.I.P. Sixto Ramos May 18th, 2011...
[Yes, it's his truck is pictured above]
In just under two weeks, we covered a few issues in depth, and have emerged with broader understanding of the country's history and current political situation, although the surface has only been scratched.
Tomorrow should be interesting, as I plan to meet with a couple of the people that I have had the privilege of talking to during my stay in Honduras, but this time...on the streets of Tegucigalpa!
As to the two months of missed info about Guatemala. I will share my reflections on the events and experiences that worth sharing. It won't be a chronicle of the events by any means, but it should be a bit more thought provoking.
Another post coming tomorrow...
On Parting Ways...
"And it came to me then. That we were wonderful traveling companions but in the end no more than lonely lumps of metal in their own separate orbits. From far off they look like beautiful shooting stars, but in reality they're nothing more than prisons, where each of us is locked up alone, going nowhere. When the orbits of these two satellites of ours happened to cross paths, we could be together. Maybe even open our hearts to each other. But that was only for the briefest moment. In the next instant we'd be in absolute solitude. Until we burned up and became nothing." - Sputnik Sweetheart, Haruki Murakami
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